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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.